March 21, 2003


Another breakfast finished at 8:15AM for a taxi that arrived at 9:15AM. Really, there is no rush here. Maybe there is a time difference between the east and west coast here
And really I had time... the dive planned at 9:30AM transformed itself in a dive planned at 11:30AM...mmm.. no good, it will cut severely my afternoon and I will have a hard time going to Baie de Lonay I believe, or just about anywhere in this island. My equipment won't have time to dry off.

While waiting for the dive, an english diver was telling a story about a French couple in his hotel having a son somewhat aged around 30 who is mentally attarded. He spoke to him last evening for a couple of hours and it happened that the guy popped up at night in his bedroom saying: 'I can't sleep' ! The english woke up instantly and was close to have an heart attack

Later, a man joins us for a 'refreshing intro dive' and it happens that it is just that man ! I'm not sure whether there is policy about mentally disabled people diving, but this is just plain dangerous to me as it appears without a doubt that the guy is a bit 'slow'to react. When we equipped ourself to go in direction of the boat, the guy just stop in the middle of the water and did not go toward the boat...

The French couple diving with me starts to worry a little bit about what kind of fucked-up dive we are running toward. How can the instructor manages an intro dive with a mentally disabled diver and 4 other divers expecting a 'good dive' ?

Olivier managed this by asking us to dive by ourselves around the coral heads. The english Open Water diver will be my buddy and the French couple will be the other team. My buddy kindly say to Olivier that he is a bit worried to make my dive short as he was used to consume a good amount of air in his previous dives. In the morning he asked me about some tips of how to breath efficiently underwater to avoid sucking up the air in 30 minutes. I assure him that he will NOT make my dive short and he will NOT suck up his air. Call this positive thinking or 'Méthode Coué'.

Our dive in a place called 'Aquarium' appeared to be quite good despite the amount of particules in the water ( the place was supposedly crystal clear ... ) and this is just in the middle of the Beau Vallon bay... I'm not quite happy about the quality of the dives here, especially at $40. We can obviouslly expect more about diving spots and guides !

We did a very pleasant dive, spotting a large turtle resting under a cave. I could not do many pictures due to the amount of particles in the water. My buddy was very happy about his dive as we stayed 58 minutes (12m max), so it looked like my advices about breathing somewhat worked well.

I waited until the middle of the afternoon in order to have my equipment dry. The problem here is not the sun but rather the air humidity that is so high that even book pages are a little torned due to water and cotton never seem to dry. Polyester clothes are very welcome here.

I changed a little money (20$) at the black market in order to have some more cash. The rate is definitely worth it. You can easily get 1$ for 9RP while it is 4.92RP officially. Local people are somewhat cautious about it and you must remain quite discrete, so do not ask about it in front of other people especially in a shop. I managed to go to an internet cafe just in front of Le Diable Des Mers to read some mails (10RP / 15min). It does not happen everyday to send a mail from the Seychelles, especially 50m from the beach

I packed all my gear and went back to Calypha guesthouse via public bus. I then went to Victoria, this was just after 5PM, so everything was closed. It is just amazing how time seems to fly here. Everything open very lately in the morning and during the day you have to take into account how things are done very slowly over here... and then how it close so early. So all in all I felt I did in 4 days here what could take me 2 days just about anywhere else. It is kind of frustrating whne you realize that every hour here cost just an enormous amount of money.

Around 6PM I stopped in one of the numerous take-away restaurant, which is the favorite way to eat for locals. I chose a tradional creole meal: sauté of fish for 19RP. It was a huge meal filled with fish, vegetables and rice. More than enough for just about anyone and the price is low. So if you are on a budget, go for it, this is cheap and good. Otherwise eating at any restaurant will cost you around 100RP.

I came back to the guesthouse and felt like walking, so I did all the way to the guesthouse walking at night on the side of the road. It was about 2km I think. I would not recommend it to anyone as the roads are quite narrow and it is somewhat dangerous with the Tata bus driving very close to the border of the road. So you'd better be on the good side of the road each time, especially at night.

Grouper Green turtle Green turtle

Posted by stephane at March 21, 2003 03:09 PM